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ALREADY FAMOUS -some would
say infamous-for his innovative fabric treatments, Mark Kroeker makes Ultrasuede®
his canvas of choice in his "Lost Collective Spring 2000" collection. The
result is wearable art the likes of which the fashion world has never seen.
"Ultrasuede® lends itself successfully to a variety of experimental techniques,"
Kroeker observes, "which makes it perfect for our collection of sportswear,
accessories and shoes."
Kroeker's innovative treatments of Ultrasuede® include acid etching, silk screening
of signed lithographs onto Ultrasuede® and, most recently, daubing metallic paints
on the fabric.
His latest take on the "little black dress," for example, transforms Ultrasuede®
into an Arabian Nights fantasy gown (top photo): Kroeker strip-cuts the fabric, then
hand-knits and hot-presses the pieces at a temperature just hot enough to melt the
material slightly. He then stretches the resulting squares over a form and beads
the garment with sterling silver.
Another metallic look is achieved on his jersey top and skirt combo (middle photo).
Here a one-shoulder top of hibiscus dévoré and linen jersey sets off
a spectacular foil-printed skirt, which in turn shares the spotlight with a clutch
bag (not shown) of Ultrasuede® foil-printed with light-loving metallics in gold,
platinum and silver. Ultrasuede® foil-printed shoes in a quill design with gold
rear heels complete this metal statement.
A late-fifties Dior design provided the inspiration for yet another dramatic look.
What Dior saw as a ruffled organza skirt, however, Kroeker reimagines with shredded
Ultrasuede®, full at the hips and tapering to a pegged bottom (bottom photo).
These and other creations were, according to Kroeker, "inspired by the versatility
of Ultrasuede® and its performance as a modern luxury fiber."
As Kroeker told Vogue last fall, "If I notice a trend is going on, I look the
other way."
Fortunately for him, the eyes of fashion can't tear themselves away from his elegantly
iconoclastic looks.
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